Introduction

At first, not many people are very happy about meeting a pro­fessional water restoration specialist! You're probably no differ­ent. If you're like most people, that's because you're upset, con­fused, traumatized, and more than a little frustrated at the situa­tion in which you find yourself.

Please rest assured that we understand.

This probably is your first, hopefully your last, water loss. But, we've been through this hundreds of times. We may be able to answer a few of your questions, help you resolve a few prob­lems, and get you and your family or coworkers back to normal a whole lot faster, more efficiently and more economically.

At least, those are our goals.

Professional restoration begins with communication. That's the purpose of this booklet. While we're getting things started, if you'll take time to glance through this information, it will make things a little easier for both of us.

So let's get started. . .

Getting Started
At the outset, there are a few things you should and shouldn 't do.
Do:
• Ensure that the water source has been eliminated

• if safe to do so, turn off circuit breakers supplying electricity to wet areas; unplug and remove any small electrical devices currently located in wet rooms

• remove small furnishings from carpet, to prevent rust or stains and speed restoration

• place aluminum foil under legs of wood furniture, especially antiques, to prevent stains

• hang draperies and pin up furniture skirts to avoid contact with wet floors which prevents water marks

•  remove books, shoes, paper goods, fabrics, potted plants, or other items that may stain floor coverings (check especially under beds    and in closets for these items)

•  remove and secure breakables, moisture-sensitive, or high-value items

•  plan for restoration crews to move some furniture into dry areas with vinyl, ceramic, or wood flooring, or garage or storage areas

•  wash your hands thoroughly after handling wet items

Do not:
•  use any type of home vacuum, even shop vacs, since electrical shock may occur, as well as potential damage to the equipment

•  place newspaper in the traffic areas, since the ink transfers easily

•  walk on wet carpet any more than necessary to minimize damage

•  turn on the heating and air conditioning system if it was flooded, or might serve to spread contamination

• increase or decrease temperature unless told to by our representative

•  in sewage losses, specifically do not:

• handle directly contaminated items
•  consume foods or use personal hygiene items that were left out in contaminated areas
•  turn on fans to circulate air or use any vacuum equipment
•  stay in the property if you:

... have respiratory problems including allergies and asthma
... are under age 2 or over age 60, or pregnant
... have a weak immune system (ill, medication, recent surgery)

 

Selecting a Professional Restoration Firm
There is no single criterion for selecting a professional firm to restore your loss. Several combined factors must be considered:

1. Professional firms require all employees to engage in formal education on an on-going basis. Health and safety training are emphasized, along with new technology.

2. Professional firms require technician certification through the Institute of Inspection, Cleaning and Restoration Certification (IICRC), an independent, non-profit certification registry.

3. Of course the reputation of the company in your community is of paramount importance. Check with neighbors, friends or business associates for references.

4. Ask about years of experience in the field of water restoration and specialized drying.

5. Professionals are happy to pro­vide proof of proper licensing, and both worker compensation and liability insurance.

6. Professional firms are members of industry trade associations. Look for logos on uniforms and service vehicles.

7. Ask your insurance agent or adjuster for referrals of experienced firms with reputations for quality work.

Frequentiy Asked Questions About Water Damage
Policy Interpretation

Is my loss covered by insurance?
If the water release is sudden and unex­pected, and if the water leak began inside your structure, it may be covered. Unless you have flood insurance, rising water from riv­ers, streams, accumulated rainfall or storm surge may not be covered. The way to tell for sure is simply to ask your insurance agent, broker or adjuster.

Who authorizes you to restore my property?
The only person who can authorize anyone to work on your prop­erty under the terms of your policy (if insured) is you or someone you designate, if you are unavailable. Usually, this is a relative, business as­sociate or trusted friend.
Further, your insurance policy requires that you, "Begin reasonable and prudent steps to preserve, protect and secure your property from further damage." That just makes sense. It's what's called the policy's "loss mitigation" clause. Failure to provide loss mitigation could result in increased cost for you.
Finally, you get to choose who does the work on your property. Others may make recommendations, but you don't have to select the recommended or cheapest contractor. Ultimately, you get to decide.

What about the insurance policy deductible?
The deductible is the portion of the loss for which you are responsi­ble. This avoids a lot of small "nickel-and-dime" claims and keeps pol­icy premiums reasonable. You are expected to pay the deductible to the contractor. Usually, when an insurance company settles a claim, it pays for all restoration costs, less the deductible.

Are there any "standard procedures" for claims processing?
Actually there are three "phases" for claims handling.

• Phase 1 is loss mitigation. Remember? . . "Reasonable and prudent steps to preserve, protect and secure property from further damage."


•  Phase 2 is coordination. This is when the contractor itemizes needed services and prices them. All paperwork and pricing will be, coordinated with you or your adjuster, if it's a covered loss.


• Finally, Phase 3 involves completion - All the services required to return your property to a "pre-loss" condition.

How do I know what's a fair price for restoration services?
Shopping for restoration services isn't exactly like shopping for groceries each week. We know that. That's why services and pricing are coordinated carefully with your insurance agent or adjuster based on industry standards. They've done this before. They know what's fair and reasonable.
Reputable contractors always let you know if needed services aren't covered by insurance. Then, you get to decide what to do. We know you don't want any "surprises" and neither do we.
Structural Drying
How long will it take my home or business to dry?

Drying time depends on several things:

• The source of water, where it's located, and how long it ran
• The types of structural and contents mate­rials; how many got wet and how absor­bent they are
• How fast the professional drying contrac­tor gets started
• Weather conditions

Professional restoration contractors have highly accurate instruments that measure moisture in the air, and within structural and contents materials throughout your home or business.
    They'll monitor drying progress and keep you informed.

Do I need to move out of my home or business?
There are three points to consider in answer to that question:

1. Foremost, consider safety, especially where small children are con­cerned. Although our equipment is as child-proof as possible, we need your cooperation to ensure that children don't play with it. Certainly, any wet environment poses safety problems for children. It's best for them to remain out of the structure during restoration. If they visit even briefly, please watch them carefully.

2. Second, we'll be operating several airmovers and dehumidifiers. They create a little noise and make your home or business a little drafty for a few days. If that's a bother, you may want to spend a few nights with relatives or friends. Continuous equipment opera­tion is critical to get you back to normal as soon as possible.

3. In any building, professional drying equipment can stir up a little dust that may bother persons with asthma, allergies or other respira­tory problems. The good news is that you'll have a cleaner, health­ier place in which to live and work once we're done. Consult health professionals about anyone who may be sensitive to the environ­ment during drying. They should leave the area and return only af­ter restoration is complete. Check with your insurance representative on this issue.

What's it cost to run all this equipment you've set up?
Based on average electrical rates throughout the country, it costs about $1.00 per day to operate each of our drying units.

What's that smell?
When excess water is extracted and professional dryers are set up and running, after 12-24 hours it's not unusual to smell "stale" odors around your home or business. Normal odors become more apparent with increased heat and humidity. These odors come from three sources: first, building ma­terials themselves, second, from soils that are in or under floor cover­ings, and third, from pet "accidents." This is normal.

Don't mistake "normal" household odors for the odor of mold. As drying progresses and humidity is eliminated, you'll notice that these odors disappear on their own. In many cases, we may apply deodorants to make things smell more pleasant during drying.

Does everything need to be moved out of my home or business during restoration?
Not normally. Most of the time, it's best to create a large "drying chamber" out of the building itself. If furnishings or inventories must be moved out, we'll let you know in advance.

How do I know when my home or business is completely dry?
Drying is complete when the moisture content of wood returns to normal - not before! The relative humidity of air tells us very little. Proper testing of materials requires specialized electronic equipment. Restoration technicians will test everything and let you know.
Carpet and Floor Coverings

Can my carpet be saved or will it have to be replaced?
Professionals hear this question a lot! Consider what carpet is made of: the pile yarns are made of nylon, polyester or olefm—all plastics! Water doesn't harm them. Same's true of the backings - all plastic too. And while the adhesive holding carpet back-ings together loses some of its strength when wet, if properly handled, it regains its strength when dry.

The key is proper handling. Professional restorers have the knowledge and experience to protect carpet and furnishings while re­storing them to a "pre-loss" condition - or better!
Regardless of what you and your ad­juster eventually decide, the carpet and pad must be carefully extracted and dried so that the excess water it's holding doesn 't damage your structure.

After that, decisions can be made about restoration or replacement.

Mold Remediation

You' ve probably seen or heard discussions in the news media about mold and its effect on people's health. Although some of this media hype is a bit overdone, you certainly don't want to take chances with your family or coworkers.
So here are a few questions you may want to ask about mold.

What causes mold to grow?
Mold spores are everywhere: in the air we breathe, on the surfaces we use. It's when mold grows excessively or uncontrolled that prob­lems begin. Mold has five growth requirements:
1. something to feed on: paper, wood, natural fibers, even soil
2. moisture, even high humidity in the air
3. moderate temperature, especially between 68-86°F or 20-30°C
4. stagnant air; not fresh or moving air
5. time: typically, there isn't much growth for the first 24-48 hours. After that, it's strictly dependent on the four conditions above.

What does mold look like?
Mold spores are in the air you're breathing right now, but you can't see them. Only  after  mold forms larger colonies do you see the gray or black "splotches" on walls or paper goods. Af­ter prolonged wetting or when you see mold on a number of items or on several square feet of wall, it's time for unprotected people to leave the structure until professional  restoration can be accomplished.

Is all mold bad?
Of course not. In fact, the antibiotic, penicillin comes from the mold Penicillium. We always have mold spores in our homes and busi­nesses, even in the outside air. It's when that mold gets trapped in a closed, stagnant environment for a while that it begins to grow and spread. That's when problems begin.

How long does it take mold to grow in a wet building?
That depends on the five growth factors mentioned earlier. Typi­cally, you don't have much of a problem for the first 24 hours, perhaps a little longer in cooler months. After that, mold growth depends on air circulation, temperature and how long materials stay damp.

Can't you just spray a little disinfectant to get rid of the mold?
Sure wish it were that easy! You see, some molds produce powerful chemicals called mycotoxins, which are found in their cell walls. Even if we kill the mold with an appropriate disinfectant, the cell fragments still can cause allergic responses in sensitive people.
So it's not enough just to kill mold. It must be physically removed with careful cleaning, or in some cases, demolition and reconstruction. Only then is your home or building going to be safe for sensitive peo­ple, especially children, to reoccupy.

If someone in my family or business is asthmatic or highly al­lergic to mold, how can I be sure that the structure is safe to reoccupy?
If water damage is caused by a "clean" water source, if the loss is reported quickly, and if the contractor arrives and begins restoration right away, typically, mold doesn't have a chance to grow enough to cause problems. In that case, moisture measurements may be used to determine complete restoration.
However, when response is prolonged, or when visible mold growth indicates greater contamination, following careful restoration, professionals may suggest "third party" or "clearance" testing as part of the completion program. This testing ensures that the building is safe for sensitive people to reoccupy. When in doubt, clearance testing may be a good idea.

Sewage

OK, what about sewage?
That, as they say, is a whole different ball game!
Here is where professional restorers must follow the guidelines in 11CRC S500, Standard and Ref­erence Guide for Professional Water Damage Restoration. Fail­ure to follow these and other public health guidelines can re­sult in severe or chronic illness for anyone who returns to a building that's inadequately re­stored.

Sewage contains a variety of pathogenic - disease causing -fungi, bacteria, viruses and para­sites.  Anyone who works
on these losses should have updated vaccinations, including one for Hepatitis B.
What's included in this category of water damage?
This is what professionals call "Category 3" water damage. It in­cludes sewage backflows with urine and feces. It also includes all forms of flooding and ground surface water that brings silt or other contami­nants into homes and buildings. It may even include relatively clean water that stagnates for prolonged periods.

What if it's just sea or lake water from a storm surge?
Doesn't matter. Yes, I know that you swim in that water all the time. But sea or lake water contains microorganisms, and it picks up bacteria, fungi, pesticides and other contaminates from the soil. When it gets trapped and stagnates inside walls or under floor coverings, its con­dition goes down hill fast.
    Pockets of saturation must be opened, cleaned and disinfected.

Can't I just use a little Clorox® to decontaminate sewage?
Absolutely not! While chlorine bleach is a good biocide in certain situations, it is quickly inactivated by raw sewage. Even if bacteria are killed by bleach, their dead cells may contain chemicals called endotox-ins, which may cause an allergic response in sensitive people.
Before professionals apply specially formulated biocides, they must clean surfaces thoroughly. Never take chances here!
Can sewage-saturated carpet be saved?
No. Highly absorbent sewage-saturated materials, such as carpet, pad, upholstery, bedding, wicker, paper or even fabrics that can't be washed in hot (130°F/54°C) water for at least 10 minutes, must be dis­posed of properly. This goes for sewage-saturated drywall, insulation and several other structural materials. There's simply too great a health risk involved if it's left in place.
Listen to the adjuster's or contractor's advice. Don't take chances here, the health risk simply is too great!
Less absorbent materials, such as structural wood, must be cleaned thoroughly, disinfected, and sometimes even sealed, before reconstruc­tion takes place.

Is it safe to stay in a building that's flooded with sewage or con­taminated extensively with mold?
Not unless the contaminated area can be completely sealed off and placed under negative pressure so there will be no cross contamination of other areas. Only the most highly trained professionals should at­tempt sewage remediation work.
It's particularly important to get people with weakened immune systems out of a sewage-damaged home or business. This may include anyone under 2 or over 60, those who are pregnant, ill, recovering from surgery, on prescription drugs, or who are suffering from AIDS. Don't take chances here. When in doubt, get out!
If you have medical questions, consult a qualified health care pro­fessional for advice.

When is a sewage-contaminated structure safe to reoccupy?
As with mold, sewage-damaged buildings must be carefully cleaned, disinfected and dried. Then, "third party" or clearance testing can be done to ensure that the home or building is safe to reoccupy.

What Can I Do Now?
OK. Where do you start to work right now?

1. Evaluate your family or other occupants and make sure that no one's health is going to be compromised by entering the damaged structure. Be sure to wear gloves and durable shoes to protect your­self. If this is an unsanitary water loss, you'll need goggles, respira­tors and a lot more protective equipment.

3. We'll assume you've called a plumber or whoever is required to make sure that the source has been eliminated or contained. If not, do that right away.

4. While you're at it, be sure to collect moveable high-value items and important papers. Put them in a secure location. Our technicians are trustworthy, but there may be several people in and out of your home or building and we don't want any question to arise.

5. Protect your furnishings and contents by moving items to dry areas for temporary storage. Evaluate anything that's ruined (books, magazines) to see if it should be discarded. If you're not sure, ask the restoration technician or adjuster for advice. This will be your primary job at the outset of the claim, just making yourself avail­able to decide what's worth saving and what's not. Be sure to look under beds and in closets or storage areas for these items.

6. Make an itemized list of anything that's obviously ruined so that you can determine its value later on.

7. If there's nothing but furniture in direct contact with the water, and if a professional restoration technician hasn't arrived yet, you can put double-folded aluminum foil under the legs of furniture to pre­vent water absorption or stain release. Don't strain yourself; save the heavy pieces for our experienced restoration technicians.

8. It's a good idea to unload breakables from china cabinets or other furniture and put those items in a safe place.

9. Hang up draperies and pin up furniture skirts to prevent contact with the water. This prevents circles and stains.
We know that questions are bound to arise, so don't hesitate to ask our restoration technicians. They'll be glad to guide you through your loss step by step. If they don't have answers, they can find someone who does.

10. Just one more point: Lots of well-meaning people will be offering advice on what can and can't be restored. That's fine. But remember, with new equipment and technology in the industry, professionals can restore far more items today than they could in past years.

Rely on the training, experience and advice of your agent, adjuster or professional restoration technician.
And when in doubt, just ask!